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Learning to Fly

... but I aint got wings; coming down is the hardest thing

sunny 31 °C

Entering Namibia has been, to me, the greatest culture change encountered. After recently traveling through so many war-torn, third-world, and undeveloped countries, my first impression of Namibia was utter civilization shock. The first change was switching to the left had side of the road, a change not advertised at the border but just assumed. Once in the first small village there were ATMs, western treats in convenience stores, KFC advertisements, and fully stocked proper supermarkets. Needless to say everyone went a bit crazy stocking up on candy, chips, meat pies, and other treats with an irrational, yet habituated, thought that we’d go another five months without seeing any.
Since we took longer than expected to get through Angola there was unfortunately not enough time to travel northwest to visit a Himba tribe. Instead we made headway to Etosha National Park after entering through the border towns of Santa Clara/Oshikango. We managed to get reservations at the first (Namutoni) and third (Okaukuejo) sections of the park for a couple days of game viewing. The three camps are situated around the main watering holes set up in such a way that the animals can be observed from a short distance via spotlights in the evening. The game drives were nothing short of fabulous and I was in heaven sitting at the watering holes late into the evenings. Okaukuejo camp in particular had excellent viewings: giraffes drinking at sunset, rhinos rustling at dusk, and a family of thirty elephants roaming in at nightfall. It was comparable to a live national geographic program but infinitely better than television; words could not express my glee. During the game drives we saw heaps of giraffe, dazzles of zebras, one lion pride, one cheetah hunting, a lone elephant bathing, and impala, springbok and oryx galore!
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Next up on the dossier was cheetah park (Camp Otjitotongwe near Kamanjab), a refugee for about 70 cheetahs rescued from the crosshairs of farmers agitated by their dwindling herds. Included in the stay is the opportunity to interact with the ‘house cats’, two full grown cats and a cub, the largest of which greeted me by licking my arm upon entering the compound - similar to 60 grit sandpaper. After the visit we hopped in the back of the truck with a bin full of donkey meat to feed the other undomesticated cats on the premise. Our driver urged us to support the cheetahs by drinking in the bar… for the sake of the cheetahs I obliged J
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Moving onward we stopped by the petrified forest near Khorixas, pretty lame if you ask me but maybe I just wasn’t in the mood to look at 260 million year old logs. The afternoon was spent at Twyfelfontein, home to arguably the most extensive collection of petroglyphs (rock art) in all of Africa. This activity was, to me, much more enjoyable but still not overly exciting.
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The following night was spent at Spitzkoppe for a spectacular view of the sunset over the valley from atop the 1728m high boulders. We arrived the next afternoon in Swakopmund, the adventure capital of Namibia, for a few days of adrenaline and European luxury. The town is said to be more German than Germany, and since I’ve never visited the motherland I can’t confirm the statement except for the obligatory schnitzel offered on most menus. I, on the other hand, opted for the fabulous game meats. Steak alone is rare in west Africa, and it had been five months since I’d had a proper medium-rare cut of meat. The springbok was superb but I wouldn’t rate the oryx (and I couldn’t bring myself to eat a zebra :S ). The first day in town I was talked into sky-diving, and considering my moderate fear of heights and small planes I surprised myself by signing up. For the first time in my life I found myself to have clammy hands and spent the day with my stomach in knots. We drove out to the airfield, geared up, and started the jumps. To add to the unease I was, of course, last to jump. The fear of jumping at least took away from any motion sickness I might have had in the small Cessna aircraft. We flew around the area for close to 20 minutes (during which time I didn’t look outside much) and when it was time to go my tandem jumper shuffled us to the door, flung me out and let go… After the initial screaming and swearing I found myself looking towards the ground in freefall, a great feeling, but since it goes by so fast I wouldn’t say it’s worth the money; but maybe I’d have to try it again without such nerves to get the full effect.
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One of the most exciting amenities Swakopmund offered were proper laundromats with washing MACHINES and DRYERS!!!! This was the first time since the UK I had seen such contraptions and it was a big indulgence to not have to hand-wash all my clothes in a bucket or river. The rest of the time in town was spent walking around the beautiful, clean and friendly boardwalk, shopping, and eating in proper restaurants and forgotten fast food joints. Unfortunately my stomach lost its ability to cope with western foods; but luckily I was in the land of luxury and flushing toilets, no need to dig one here!
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As we headed onwards to the Namib desert area it became clear George still wanted a few extra days of rest, but we nursed him along to Sossusvlei for a morning viewing of dune 45, the most famous and photographed sand dune in the world. The early morning climb was magnificent, albeit rather cold and more tiring than it should have been given the lack of exercise over the past months aboard the truck. Once we’d had enough of playing around in the sand a shuttle brought us to Dead Vlei, (dead valley) a salt pan housing groupings of wiry petrified trees. The landscape here is rather stark and it was an interesting area to walk around and photograph.
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The temperamental George forced us to bushcamp, once again, en route to Bethanie after increasingly frequent stops to tend to his many fissures. The remaining few kilometers to South Africa were spent along the Orange river, and a visit to Fish River Canyon (supposed 3rd largest in the world… not sure what definition that holds) was made. The canyon was impressive and worth a visit.
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Namibia has been a great country overall, but bittersweet in contrast to the more ‘real’ feeling countries we’ve passed through on the west. This has been the first really touristy country visited on the trip since Morocco and I personally would rather spend my time away from any sign of Europeans. However, there has been much to do and see in Namibia, and Etosha alone blew my mind. Next up, Cape Town: the end of the west and the start of the second leg; and most importantly, the chance to see my Dad and sister!
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Posted by binderblog 07:05 Archived in Namibia Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

Civil War

Look at the hate we're breeding Look at the fear we're feeding

semi-overcast 24 °C
View (Into and) Out of Africa on binderblog's travel map.

Late in the afternoon of the 10th we finally made it to Kinshasa, the countries capital, and a city considered to be one of the most dangerous in the world. This fact was evident by the enormous amount of razor wire spun around compounds in town; the UN building alone had 5 horizontal rows 2 rolls deep! In fact, DRC has the largest concentration of UN workers in any one country, approximately 11000; however the problem areas lie in the east and we made a quick transit down the coast to avoid such problems. We tried to source out a stay at Chutes de Lukia but couldn’t find any roadsigns leading us to it, so we bush camped in a quarry roadside instead. Our second night in the country was spent at ‘chutes du Congo’, a spot which seemed to be popular with the UN workers from the capital and after meeting some it was upsetting to hear the perspective of the ‘humanitarians‘. It’s no wonder the locals seem so horribly miserable; they clearly see the wealth of the united nations but no discernible share of it.
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After our 12th tyre puncture, another bush camp, and passing through the small town of Mbanza-Ngungu we finally made it through the windy road to Matadi. We spent three days at the catholic mission compound in the seemingly pleasant town that prevented the previous trans-Africa trip entry into the country (fighting broke out a year earlier and several hundred people were killed). Chris tried to source out a new radiator to no avail, so we’ve all crossed our fingers hoping George will get us through Angola (which we only have 5 day transit visas for).
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Posted by binderblog 02:18 Archived in Democratic Republic of Congo Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

Welcome to the Jungle

learn to live like an animal in the jungle where we play

semi-overcast 22 °C
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Heading into Gabon, the rain-forest ecosystem encountered in Cameroon was intensified and though the route we took was windy, it made for spectacular views on the many long drive days. The second day in Gabon made for a personal victory - entering the southern hemisphere for the first time! Water did indeed flow straight down a funnel, and contrary to my childhood belief that I would spontaneously combust upon straddling the equator I managed to remain as pale as ever. In fact, one of the most surprising aspects of Gabon was the climate. Most days required a jumper and the nights were spent bundled in my sleeping bag, and this is out of the rainy season.
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June 28th, our 3rd day in the country, we made it to Lambarene, home of the Albert Schweitzer (Nobel Peace Prize winner in 1952) Hospital. The clinic was originally set up to treat lepers, and while it is closed, a new hospital has been built and is free to locals. The original is now a museum and remarkably intact, the only downside to the visit was how rushed we were since they close early on Sundays. Most of us made the visit and encountered a slight problem when meeting back up with the truck - there are 2 post offices and we met up at the wrong one. Tempers flared a bit and cross words were exchanged by some but all was forgotten in the evening thanks to the equator party Lene and John H organized for us. Everyone performed short skits which were all nothing short of hilarious. Kudos to Martin, Gwynne and Tamara, the cook group for the evening, who slaved over the campfire making pizzas for 5 hours! The morning proved to be painful for most however, as our camp was infiltrated with virtually invisible insects which are immune to deet and leave painful red splotches. In some cases entire legs were covered in these making me think another visit to the leper hospital was in order. They are also some of the most painful bites encountered; maybe not as bad as some the bouts I’ve had with flea bites, but worse than bed bugs and mossie bites for sure.
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After leisurely packing up camp we set off on a long and windy drive for Reserve de la Lope, where there were rumored to be lowland gorillas. We set up camp for 3 days here, scheduled a game drive for the second afternoon, and arranged for our radiator to be fixed (again). On the game drive we saw forest elephants from a lengthy distance along with a couple of indistinguishable monkeys and a buffalo that wandered off pretty quickly. Most thought it to be a fairly lame game drive but considering this was my first one I wasn’t too fussed and it turned out to be a pretty owesome Canada Day.
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The following morning we set off towards Franceville but our fickle radiator let us down. “George” (the newly named pesky rad) went through 100 L in 2 hours and eventually left us stranded on an unfrequented logging road. Luckily a passing car informed us of a logging camp nearby where we hoped to find a mechanic to help us out. Chris, Gary and the good Samaritan drove back to enquire while the rest of us amused ourselves for a couple hours while trying to fend off the fourous (tiny demonic insects). The crew arrived with good news of a mechanic and we drove to the small logging village of Offoue. The town was so small that the only food we could find was a few tins of sardines and manky looking fish from the freezer of a small general store. The cooks managed to conjure something up while the rest of us found the local bar to hang around. the local millwrights mending our rad were very friendly and hospitable, and had about 8 of us over for drinks that night. Days like these, while stressful initially, always seem to turn into the most memorable and authentic. Once again we were saved by the generosity of locals and I seem to be consistently astonished with African hospitality.
Camped in amongst graders and logging trucks, we set off on our way the next morning after filling our jerry cans at the train station. It is worth mentioning the enormous amount of logging taking place in Gabon; trains kilometers long full of trees at least 2m in diameter are constantly rolling past, and slash pile fires can be seen most every night. I don’t consider myself a tree hugger by any means but the clear cutting of such pristine rain forest is upsetting. We entered Gabon at a rather historical time; a week after the death of president Bongo, who has been in power the last 42 years (making him the longest serving head of government of any African country, and the world's longest-serving non-monarch ruler). There has been much controversy over his green initiatives in recent years; while he has set aside much of Gabon’s area as national parks for ’conservation’ and tourism marketing, the loop holes for limitless logging and mining in these ’protected areas’ is shady. It will be interesting to see what the next cabinet (ran by his son) brings. Even the lonely planet guide cites Bongo’s imminent death as a momentous and possibly volatile event. Given the recent bereavement, however, it is for the best we planned not to go through the capital, Libreville, during such an unpredictable time.
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We finally made it into Franceville, the only city visited in Gabon with much more than a few shops and street vendors (which has been good considering it is the most expensive country in Africa - the Lonely Planet jokes it costs $20 a day to breath in Libreville). We treated ourselves to a pizza lunch and most ran off to the first internet cafes encountered in a couple weeks. We only stayed a few hours in the city and bush camped en route to the border in a gravel pit. The following day was another drive day to the Congo border town of Leconi after passing through Bongoville.

Note: I have updated the Cameroon entry and have added more photos.. trying to get this caught up to at least South Africa, but will be leaving wifi territory soon.

Posted by binderblog 14:12 Archived in Gabon Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

Here for a good time, not a long time

So have a good time, the sun can not shine everyday

rain 23 °C
View (Into and) Out of Africa on binderblog's travel map.

June 10th marked our entry into Cameroon, the 12th country encountered thus far, and it made for an interesting installment to say the least. Our driver, Chris, had heard of a supposed hippo trainer so we thought we’d check it out. We managed to find the guy and off we went to the river bank on a whimsical excursion. None of us had any preconceived notions of what to expect and I don’t think anyone realized just how ’hands-on’ it would be. We were first led to the river bank where I happily took photos of the raft of hippos off in the distant waters. The hippo-trainer then got into the water and waded out to meet the beasts; at this point we were all pretty convinced this guy was mad. Our impressions were premature however, as an assistant came around the river bend with two dodgy pirogue canoes. I was a bit weary but thought ‘awesome, I’ll get to see the hippos from a closer distance’… the first canoe was poled over to the shallow bank in the middle of the river, and while I boarded the next I was flabbergasted to see those in the first boat getting out for a better vantage point - IN the river. I followed suit somewhat apprehensively while 10 hippos circled around, surfacing closer and closer. I kept thinking back to what I know about the blubbery mammals, namely that they account for the most deaths of any animal in Africa and wondered if it was due to gullible tourists vying for a too-good-to-be-true adventure. Keeping a “safe” distance, the lot of us looked on with a mix of petrified and stoked faces as the massive animals came within five feet of us while a crazy man in his knickers hand fed one. As it turned out, only ONE of the hippos was ‘tame’, and the other members of the family were just as close (including a male, the biggest hippo Chris had ever seen, who kept submerging). For the brave at heart we also had the opportunity to feed and pet the tame hippopotamus. When it became my turn a calf turned up for a feed and the trainer still tried to direct the mother in my direction. I managed to pet her but if there is one golden rule I know of any dangerous animal its not to get in-between a mother and her young, so I happily backed off and we set off to shore. It was certainly a once in a lifetime opportunity that would never be advertised in any other African country and not something I ever thought I’d get (or want) a chance to do, but definitely in my top 5 best moments! The days excitement didn’t stop there though; at our bush camp later that evening we were swarmed by flying termites. Apparently the event only happens two nights a year during the breeding period when hundreds of thousands of winged termites swarm, drop their wings, and pair up. While it was quite a spectacular event to see, it was a shame I was on cook duty that night! Lets just say everyone had an extra serving of protein, and it was best not to eat with a torch on. Clean up was at the height of the infestation and we were left covered in bugs; we also spent a good portion of the morning cleaning the remnants of thousands of dropped wings out of the food lockers.
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The next five days were spent in transit towards the capital, Yaoundé, to collect visas for Gabon, Congo, and DRC. We passed through in the height of the rainy season, a much different climate to muggy and stinking hot Nigeria. The road through is a particularly rough logging road making for some uncomfortable days in the back of the truck. The heavy rains also cause the rain barriers to become set down, though they were easily avoided with cigarette bribes or exaggerations of acute illness. The state of our radiator didn’t make the journey through any easier, nor did our missing headlights; so travel was only made before nightfall and frequent stops were made to mend the rad. Before arrival in Yaoundé we bush camped for nine days total, all without showers, and within very close proximity to each other. That length of time was difficult to be in such a confined space and I think a lot of nerves began to fray. You can try to take everything with a grain of salt, but at the end of the day we sweat an awful lot! All in all, it was a difficult travel period but managed successfully and made for a well deserved break entering Yaoundé. The scenery passing through northern Cameroon was absolutely stunning. It was my first visit to rain forest area apart from the temperate rainforests of BC, and is by far my favourite biome visited. The morning fog veiled the forest canopy below at one memorable bush camp, making for a scenic restroom. Driving closer towards the capital we came across sugarcane fields which were a complete change of backdrop and also very picturesque.
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The town of Yaoundé is 750m above sea level and composed of a series of hills dispersed amongst the valley. We stayed at a Presbyterian mission there that was unfortunately suffering a water shortage so I instead opted to ‘splurge’ on a hotel down the road with showers, TV and wifi - it was a very appreciated luxury after so many days on the road. Most everyone made frequent visits to the local French patisseries for cheese pies, croissants, and cakes; the long days on the road through small villages often leave us with only packs of biscuits, bread rolls, laughing-cow cheese, or tinned goods for lunch if we’re lucky. it also seems fresh produce is quite sparse in the markets, surprising given the seemingly fertile land.
Apart from having hot showers and internet access there wasn’t much to see and do in Yaoundé, but I managed to make the most of it anyhow. Lene and I had a memorable day in Mokolo, the grand market, clothes shopping. It seems all of the hundreds of stalls are run by men and are very infrequently visited by white women. Much laughter and amusement was had by the two of us as we were completely swarmed by exceptionally forward locals making advancements, and fighting amongst themselves for our attention. It’s not uncommon to attract a lot of fascination throughout west Africa, nor do I principally enjoy it, but this particular market was a level beyond belief and made for a very funny afternoon. Unfortunately I didn’t get a chance to purchase much since it was all a bit too overwhelming...
Leaving Yaoundé, finally, we ventured off to Kribi after losing 5 Mt. Cameroon climbers. Of course, the road in between isn’t sealed and the recent rains left us stuck in the ditch in no time. The locals passing through were all too keen to help and after hours of digging there was little progress, in fact, the truck became increasingly inclined and rutted farther into the mud. I’m not normally too phased by such predicaments (as I’ve been known to have been in a few of my own :S) but the angle of the truck was starting to make me nervous and I’m surprised it didn’t end up tipping. By 9:00pm there was no hope of digging it out and a dump truck passing through finally came to the rescue and pulled us out. By this point we had set up camp at a church down the road so we parked up and went on our way in the morning before encroaching upon the Sunday service.
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Entering the coastal beach town of Kribi we were greeted with a tropical rainstorm. One night in a tent was enough, and for the bargain price of about $2 each, Lene, Martin, and myself were treated to ‘the beach house’ - of course, this IS Africa, and the water pump was down, as was the electricity 90% of the time so water was fetched from the well and candles were lit. In Kribi I was also able to make use of some fabric purchased in Nigeria; by just bringing in a few meters and a drawing of what I wanted, the very talented seamstresses conjured up a custom African dress for a bargain price. The weather managed to calm down over the few days beachside, so the clean warm ocean water was visited frequently. Lene and I befriended a cook from the restaurant we frequented, who got us a bargain deal on 5 crates of beer for the truck, the supplies of which had run out quickly in the long and grueling Cameroon drive days.
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Leaving Kribi, we ventured back to Yaoundé to pick up our Gabonese visas along with Sarah (who had fallen victim of malaria), Ben and Gary. On route we were fortunate enough to visit Mefou national park, a tucked away sanctuary for chimps, lowland gorillas and other primates. Being able to observe the extremely endangered gorillas from such a close distance was a special experience for everyone who partook, and the sanctuary does a good job of providing a large enclosed space for the animals severely targeted by bushmeat hunters in the area. We were also visiting during what the UN declared "year of the gorilla" in an effort to boost conservation and awareness. All-in-all it was a favoured activity and we all had to be dragged away from the magnificent and curious animals with whom we share so much. Looking into their human-like eyes you can feel an instant connection and feel as though they can read your thoughts just the same. In the case of the chimp enclosure, I felt as though I was visiting an insane asylum!
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From Mefou we headed to the Gabon border via Ebolawa. Most were quite happy to leave Cameroon after finding the people unfriendly, I however consider it my favourite countries visited so far in terms of scenery and city ambiance. It is a rather French-feeling country, and people are fairly standoffish but the nightlife and people, once you get to know them, more than make up for it. Our last night in Yaoundé was a prime example. Six of us met a few locals outside a supermarket make-shift bar and ended up going to the local hangouts with our new friends Francis, Renée, and Renaldo, who insisted on buying all the rounds, much to our dispute. It was a prime example of the hospitality and generosity of the people throughout many countries visited and the sort of night that’s always one of the best. It also exemplifies one of the downturns of this sort of travel, as we are never really in one place long enough to get to know the friends made and are constantly leaving for a new destination.

Posted by binderblog 06:53 Archived in Cameroon Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

Everyday is a winding road

I've never been there but the brochure looks nice

all seasons in one day 32 °C

Our fourth African country visited is Burkina Faso. We bee-lined straight to the capital which has the coolest name, Ouagadougou. Here we sent in our visa applications for Nigeria and waited around a few days to pick them up. There wasn’t too much of interest to do in the city so most time was spent lazing by the pool and hand-washing laundry. The applications took longer than expected so the group took off leaving Gary to sort them out and meet up with us at a later date. Our next destination was Bobo-Dioulasso after a stopover at a refreshing set of waterfalls for the afternoon. That evening we had our first taste of African tropical storms. While a few of us were still up and watching a local band practice a fierce wind blew in. We knew it was serious when the locals packed up and took off running! The rains follow about 10 minutes after the wind starts so we all took off to secure our tents. Not all were so lucky and two tents blew away in the short time between the start of the storm and the run to the soccer pitch. Luckily for me my tent-mate was (being the keyword) asleep and thus holding down the tent. The lightening storm was fantastic and I watched as long as I could before the rain got too heavy. In the morning I reluctantly opened the tent which now felt like a waterbed to find with relief it had not washed away. The group did a search for the 2 missing tents and while one was recovered the other was nowhere to be found. The ground dried out quickly and the drive to bobo was clear and blue. One observation along the way was the presence of manicured lawns, or even lawns for that matter; it is clear we are in a different biome and transitioning into the rain forest that lies ahead. Next on the itinerary is Ghana, our first English speaking country of the trip! The border crossing was painless and we had our first and only bushcamp of the country the first night. Ghana is the most densely populated country in Africa and immediately different from its neighbours. The Christian influence is clear and islamic insignia is replaced by a vast array of signs, billboards and shop names such as “god loves you hairdresser”, “heaven gate no bribe furniture store”, and many amusing ones such as “have patience restaurant” (nice honesty, but I did not eat there!). The next day we visited our first national park, Mole. We camped on the grounds where the cook group had to deal with a pesky baboon which stole food and wreaked havoc. In the morning I did a walking safari, coming within 20m of huge Savannah elephants! I had a sore back and unfortunately did not take my camera after advice to bring a telephoto lens from the group who went the day prior and weren’t nearly as lucky to be so close. It was nice to just experience the walk itself and soak it in rather than fiddle with a camera so I wasn’t too phased by missing the opportunity. Next up we stopped at Kintampo waterfalls which was reminiscent of fern gully, absolutely gorgeous. We also made a brief visit to Volta lake, the largest man-made reservoir in the world. The dam wasn’t very impressive given the shear volume of water but interesting nonetheless.
We made a visit to the Boabeng-Fiema Monkey Sanctuary next for a guided tour to see black and white columnus monkeys as well as mona monkeys. We later arrived in Kumasi where we stayed for a few days before heading to the beach. We stayed at Green turtle lodge in dixcove, a bit of a pretentious hippie beach lodge that pledged to be ecological but was in fact no different from the rest of the resorts around… Cynacism aside, I thoroughly enjoyed the niche and made good use of lazying around the beach for 3 days. Ended up catching a nasty stomach bug making its round through the group so it was especially good to be stationary for a few days.
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Once we left our beach paradise the truck headed straight for another at Brenu beach after a stop in Elmina to visit St George’s castle. Cape coast was visited next, home of the lasgest slave-tradig castle in West Africa. A few of us headed off to Kakum national park to do a canopy walk, it was roughly 40m above ground and made a few very uneasy. That night we stayed at Hans cottage botel… where they had a lake full of crocodiles surrounding the restaurant (apparently they often come on deck and inside!). Our next destination was Big Milly’s outside the capital of Accra. It was a chilled out and very popular tourist desitnation popular with the local rasta crowd. We stayed here for a few days while obtaining togo and benin visas. It was enjoyed by most, in general it was just nice to be able to relax in an English speaking region and converse with the locals. Many deep, interesting, and amusing conversations were had – a nice change from struggling to converse with my pigeon French. Our time at the beach came to an end for a while here, and we stopped at another set of waterfalls (Wii falls) before entering into Togo. It was a 7km hike in and definitely worth it. I felt like I should have been next to David Attenborough observing the thousands of nesting bats right next to the highest waterfall in the west of Africa. A few people weren’t so fond of the water after I commented on why the soil was so soft… being next to a massive bat colony and all...
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Our entry into Togo made me slightly contemptuous after paying double the visa fee for entry than anyone else (even the Americans). My disillusion was unwarranted, however, seeing that the Togolese people were extremely friendly; in fact the principle of the school we stayed at the first night wanted to meet the sole Canadian on the truck because his brother is in Ontario. I did ask him why his country had it in for us but he didn’t have any answers. The mountains coming into Togo were gorgeous, I would have taken photos but it was only at the border crossing where they were in clear view and I didn’t want to cause any undue trouble. The coutry itself is only 50km or so wide so we stayed only 2 nights before entering into Benin, another country hardly more than a pinpoint on a map.
I will leave it there for now – I’m just checking out of my hotel with free wifi in Yaounde, Cameroon. Next up we head into Gabon, then Congo, DRC, Angola and Namibia. I likely won’t have much internet for the next 6 weeks so I don’t expect to get many updates up but we shall see.
Cheers.

Posted by binderblog 01:31 Archived in Burkina Faso Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

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